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El Capitan: Historic Feats and Radical Routes, by Daniel Duane
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An unforgettable faceall 3,000 granite feet of it. El Capitan towers above California's Yosemite Valley, a sheer rock wall, seemingly insurmountable, and by far the most coveted rock climb on earth. El Capitan traces the mountain's unique history and recounts the vertical adventures had therefrom Warren Harding's 45-day siege in 1958 up through the recent speed climbs of under 5 hours. Critically acclaimed author Daniel Duane articulates how this massive wall can totally consume a person. Duane profiles the legends who have devoted themselves to El Capitan, including Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, and John Middendorf. Accompanied by 36 moody duotones, El Capitan captures the essence of big wall climbing.
- Sales Rank: #479662 in Books
- Published on: 2000-09
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 1.00" h x 1.00" w x 1.00" l,
- Binding: Hardcover
- 144 pages
From Library Journal
Like a younger, funnier Peter Matthiessen, Duane brought an easily worn literary and environmental seriousness to his beautiful 1996 book on surfing, Caught Inside: A Surfer!s Year on the California Coast and followed with a surprisingly entertaining novel about rock climbers, Looking for Mo. In his new book, Duane is again a knowledgeable but scrupulously unheroic participant narrator, conveying the wonder and self-torture of his subject without lapsing into glorifying clichE. El Capitan basically draws on the research that went into Duane!s climbing novel, re-creating the stirring ascents of the great 3000' granite chunk in Yosemite Valley known as El Cap, which is pictured throughout in dizzying photos. No one conquered the Cap until the late 1950s, but Duane shows the evolution since of the rock!s fabled routes"the Salathe, Pacific Ocean Wall, the Nose"and the change in emphasis from who will be first to whose ascent will be fastest or purest. Duane skillfully contrasts the spiritual fathers of modern rock climbing, from Warren Harding (whose 1958 effort wasn!t the prettiest or shortest on record but was first) to the more aesthetic-minded climbers Royal Robbins and Yvon Chuinard, up until the recent free climb attempts of Scott Burk. Recommended for sports and outdoor collections."Nathan Ward, Library Journal
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Booklist
From a San Francisco climber and journalist comes this interesting history of one of the world's most challenging rocks: El Capitan, nestled in California's Yosemite Valley, a sheer granite wall 3,000 feet high that has captured the imaginations of mountaineers since its discovery in 1851. One man climbed El Cap 52 times in 12 years. In 1958, Warren Harding spent 45 days on the rock; nowadays really hardy mountaineers can get from bottom to top in about five hours. Duane, who has spent some time on El Cap himself (in 1991, he made three unsuccessful attempts to get to the top), tells the rock's story by introducing us to the men who dedicated their lives to conquering it. This is a dramatic book, full of derring-do, near misses, and thrills and chills, ideal for readers of real-life adventures (like The Perfect Storm or Into Thin Air) and armchair mountaineers. David Pitt
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved
Review
Los Angeles Times
Daniel Duane does for the nature of California what John Muir did, no question. He captures the thrill and the enzymatic connection between our evolution (physical, conscious, you name it) and our environment. He makes a reader feel the majesty of California, no less so than on the face of El Capitan. As he did with surfing, Duane captures the aesthetic of climbing as well as its unique spiritual challenge. He distinguishes between routes: "The Salathe Wall...meanders all over El Capitan's southwest face because [previous climbers] were determined to reduce the use of bolts...[T]heir route, as a result, really does express a belief about an ideal way of being in the world."
And then there are the men who have climbed El Capitan: Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost to name a few, Duane captures these men at the point when their souls intersect with the rock, even in his description of a handshake: "His fingers," he writes of Jim Bridwell, "claw-like forms that grip yours with an odd kind of passivity, as if this spring-loaded steel trap just can't bring itself to engage for anything short of a hammer."
Finally, there's Duane himself on El Cap, describing his third failure: "My partner at that time, Russ McBride, was so unafraid at belays that even as we dangled in the Stoveleg Cracks, he kept right on reading 'One Hundred and One No Down Payment Formulas: How to Get Rich Quick in the Real Estate Market.' I was, however, utterly and desperately terrified once again. (I actually wept with fear, babbling incoherently about how I loved my mother and wanted to live to get married and have babies of my own someday.)" All the greatest adventure writers must describe their fears to us, and Duane is generous, funny and honest about his fear and his awe.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Good Read.
By Monte
Great book on a golden era in Valley climbing.
1 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Musings about the Holy Grail
By Rick Spell
El Capitan is the Holy Grail of Big Wall Climbing and Duane does a very good job providing background history of the Walls and the Legends who made their mark on them. Yes, I've read the other reviews concerned with minor inaccuracies and lack of mention of significant climbers. But, hey, I'm a novice and have never been to Yosemite although I hope to go in the next year. Duane is best in interviewing the legends and telling their background stories and trying to translate the reasons they climb. It's a fascinating story. My favorite being the men stuck on the wall when a storm comes and their bivouc tents are virtually destroyed. Also, it's nice to read about the free spirits whose goal in life have nothing to do with money and all to do with the Wall. Overall, I found this book informative, very concise, and filled with great pictures. It may not however, satisfy the experienced climbers who follow climbing history or have significant experience in Yosemite. But for people fascinated with climbing and the personalities involved, it was a great quick, informative read.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Close But No Cigar
By A Customer
I was excited to see a new history book on El Capitan, but the final product was short of my expectations. Duane draws a few good observations and insight at times, but the guts of the book strike me as a rehash of articles from all kinds of other publications. I have an unusually large collection of climbing literature, which may skew my observations because I've seen so much of the raw historical material he draws from for the book in so many other places. I don't mind that so much, but I was hoping to hear some of the not-so-well known stories of adventures on El Cap and a little more new insight into the historical figures of the big stone. It just wasn't there for me. People who are not so read up on climbing history will probably find the book more enjoyable. The book is an incredibly quick read (not that much text, but lots of pictures) for a subject that could easily justify a much larger book.
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